Why Does the Caged Bird Scream?

Despite the fact that Stewie has been extra vocal in expressing his displeasure with me in the last week and I’ve only been moderately successful in tempering his bad mood, I wrote up some tips on what to do if your parrot screams a lot for the PetKnows blog.

While we might not like that our parrots scream at the top of their (deceptively tiny) lungs, let’s not forget that they are trying to communicate something and that we need to respond accordingly. There’s no single answer to the question “why is my bird screaming?” That’s like asking: “what do people mean when they are talking?” The answer: it depends — both on the bird and the context. That means how you respond to your bird’s screaming can’t be a one-size-fits-all solution either. Your reaction needs to be appropriate to what your bird is trying to communicate.

To help you along in your bird-to-human translation efforts, here’s my interpretation of what my birds are trying to tell me when they are screaming.

What Stewie (loud sun conure) is trying to say when he screams:

1. Pay attention to me!
2. Pay attention to me now!
3. Look, there’s something outside!
4. Why aren’t you paying attention to meeeee?!
5. Gimme, gimme, gimme!
6. I’m a sun conure, and I love the sound of my voice, YAY!!!
7. Pay attention to me!!!!
8. Where are you?? I don’t see you. You can’t possible be paying attention to me!
9. Yay, you’re home. Now you can pay attention to me!
10. PAY ATTENTION TO MEEEEEEE!!

What Mika’s (pionus parrot) screaming means:

1. Stewie, SHUT UP!!
2. For god’s sake someone make that conure shut up already!
3. ME TOOOOO !!!

If you’ve got a screaming parrot, buy some earplugs and try these tips to curb excessively loud vocalization. And check out the links below for more information.

Recommended reading:

• Stop your Parrot from Screaming for Attention
• Why Does My Parrot Scream
• Screaming and Other Noisy Behavior Problems in Pet Birds
• Squelch Excessive Screaming

Barbara Heidenrich, Parrot Trainer – Interview

What a treat! Today I got to interview Barbara Heidenreich, one of the country’s top parrot training experts. She’s been in the field of animal training since 1990, has consulted with zoos around the country, and publishes resources for owners of companion birds, including Good Bird Magazine (a free download of which is available here), books, videos, and training/behavior workshops.

She is the author of Good Bird! A Guide to Solving Behavior Problems in Companion Parrots and also The Parrot Problem Solver.

Barbara Heidenreich is the past president of the International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators (www.IAATE.org).

Best in Flock: How did you get into training parrots and how long have you been doing it?

Barbara Heidenreich: I had budgies as a child and acquired my Amazon parrot Tarah 21 years ago. At that time I did not know too much about training parrots. I just knew I relay enjoyed having animals in my life and knew I would make a career with animals.

After working a number of animal related in jobs in high school and college, I decided to become a zookeeper. My first zoo keeping job was at Marine World Africa USA. My role was to work with the animals in the education department so that they would be comfortable going to school programs. It was here that I first got my feet wet training. I soon moved over to the bird show and stuck with free flighted bird shows for years. These shows featured many bird species…hawks, owls, eagles, cranes, vultures, hornbills and of course parrots.

After many years of presenting shows, I started consulting. My focus was on teaching zoo professionals how to train different types of animals for shows as well as husbandry and medical behaviors.

My work with companion parrots was starting during this time also. I often gave presentations to bird clubs and organizations. But this really expanded after I wrote a book for companion parrot owners called “Good Bird! A Guide to Solving Behavior Problems in Companion Parrots.” It was inspired by all the questions I would receive from guests after I presented a bird show.

At the time I did not know how many people were seeking information. Things really evolved from there. I really felt it would make a big difference in the lives of many pet parrots to get the information we used to train birds for show available to everyone. And I am really happy to see positive reinforcement training catching on with parrot owners. It can make such a huge impact for them and their birds.

More after the jump…

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Read reviews or buy your copy of Good Bird! A Guide to Solving Behavior Problems in Companion Parrots at Amazon.com.

GET IT NOW!!

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Best in Flock: What’s changed about how people perceive bird ownership and parrot training since you started?

Heidenreich: A great question! I think interest has grown tremendously in finding kinder and gentler ways to interact with your bird. The message seems to be getting out there that there is no need to dominate a bird to get good behavior. There is no need to be a flock leader or force birds to comply. People have learned positive reinforcement strategies build trust and biting does not have to be part of life with a parrot. It is a huge change. Now it is just a matter of getting this message to more people. That way more people and parrots can have a better relationship. My goal all along has been for people to treat animals with as much kindness as possible. I think teaching positive reinforcement training is the path to reaching this goal.

Best in Flock: What sorts of mistakes do you feel people often make when they first bring a parrot home?

Heidenreich: I think we sometimes have certain expectations of what we should be able to do right away with a new parrot. A big thing for me is to teach people to read and respond to bird body language. Rather than focusing on the end result you would like (like having the bird step up) the real path to success is to focus on how the bird is responding to you. If the bird indicates it is uncomfortable, backing off is a wise choice. Take things a bit slower and use positive reinforcement so that the bird becomes an eager participant.

Best in Flock: Can you share any anecdotes about the worst cases of parrot behavior you’ve ever had to deal with? What provided the breakthrough in that case?

Heidenreich: I don’t know if it is the worst thing, but I love sharing the story of Toby and Joseph. Toby a Meyer’s parrot had developed some serious aggressive behavior towards his owner Joseph. It was to the point that Joseph no longer interacted with his bird. After a few in home consultations Joseph totally embraced a positive reinforcement approach to working with Toby and this bird is now just amazing!

Joseph and Toby are featured in my first DVD and a new one that is coming out soon. (I think people will be especially impressed with what Toby has learned in the new one) They can also be seen on my youtube site at www.youtube.com/goodbirdinc

Best in Flock: Do you have any tips for new parrot owners just getting started with training?

Heidenreich: I always suggest starting out with a hands off behavior first. Something simple like targeting or turning around on cue, or even a retrieve. Save step up for later, after your bird has learned how to learn.

These behaviors build trust and you don’t have to worry about whether your bird might bite since the behaviors are hands off.

Joseph did 6 months of hands off behaviors until he felt confident again to work on step up. Now step up is as easy as any behavior and Toby no longer presents aggressive behavior with Joseph.

I would like to add that training really can be so much fun once you get the hang of it. It can be a bit addicting! There is something about that moment when your bird understands what you are trying to teach. It is almost a rush for the trainer. Next thing you know you want to teach another behavior…and another! And the good news is your bird will be addicted too. That is the beauty of positive reinforcement training. It is fun for you and your bird.

Parrot Props and Trick Training Toys

When clicker training your bird, you should teach at least three prop behaviors before you work on non-prop behaviors (to avoid having the bird use his first and strongest behavior as way to beg for treats or attention). A training prop could be anything, it doesn’t have to be expensive, but sometimes it’s just easier to buy a prop specifically designed for bird training.

Since finding parrot training props isn’t as easy as it should be, I’ve gathered together various links I’ve bookmarked where you can find trick training toys for birds. If you know of other good sources for clicker training props, please leave a comment and and I’ll add it to the list. If you’d like to share your shopping experience with any of the parrot supply stores below, I’d welcome that as well since I haven’t tried all these sites out myself.

Parrot Clicker Training Kit

• “Getting Started” Clicker Training for Birds” Kit includes the definitive book on the subject, a clicker, a target stick and training treats!!

Birdie Basketball

• http://www.birdsjustwannahavefun.com/toys_trick_props.htm
• http://www.parrotdiseperch.com/parrot/shop_details.php?prod=1431
• http://www.parrotdiseperch.com/parrot/shop_details.php?prod=863
• http://www.birdsupplies.com/Parrot-Basketball-Hoop-Prop-p/mgo-1207.htm
• http://www.birdalog.com/index.cfm/S/32/N/263/Basket_Ball_Hoop.htm

Ring Toss Toys and Props

• http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=5059+16444+16446&pcatid=16446
• http://www.birdboardshop.com/fm213.html
• http://stores.parrotprops.net/Detail.bok?no=15
• http://www.birdsupplies.com/Shapes-Ring-Toss-Bird-Trick-Toy-p/bel-62.htm

Scooters/Skateboards for Cockatiels and Bigger Birds

• http://angelbird.bizland.com/scooter.html
• http://www.parrotsandprops.com/Products.php
• http://www.birdsupplies.com/Bird-Scooter-p/mg%20o00200.htm

Bird-Sized Roller Skates

• https://www.parrotmountain.com/ShowProducts.asp?GroupId=408
• http://www.naturechest.com/rollerskates.html
• http://www.birdalog.com/index.cfm/S/32/N/133/Bird_Skates.htm

And if money is no object for your feathered genius, check out this bicycle built for parrots.

Obviously some of these parrot tricks are much harder to teach than others, and your bird would have to be macaw-sized to operate anything as complicated as a bicycle, but don’t get discouraged — some of the behaviors are actually not that complicated to teach! Ring toss and basketball are only one step removed from retrieve (teaching your bird to fetch), which is one the first prop tricks to teach a beginner bird anyway. (Stewie’s first real trick was to put a ball in a cup, and I’m a terrible trainer. If we can do it, anyone with a little patience and a lot of humor can do the same.)

The obvious disclaimer: buy from these online parrot toy stores at your own risk. I’m not vouching for them.

Should-be-obvious statement #2: “Because they do cool tricks” is not a good reason to run out and buy a parrot. Tigers jump through hoops of fire – doesn’t mean you just run out and get one because of that. Ok, enough preaching.

For your viewing pleasure: A Macaw Parrot Riding a Bicycle, among other things:

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Teaching My Parrot to Wave

The latest trick we’re working on is waving. This is usually one of the earlier non-prop behaviors parrot trainers teach their birds, but I started with behaviors I could capture instead of ones I’d have to shape. I finally felt we were both ready to work on this trick, and once I knew my plan of attack, Stewie picked up on it quickly. At least half the energy of teaching Stewie new tricks is me simply mapping out what the steps are going to be (creating a lesson plan, so to speak).

The video below is of our 4th session working on wave. Below the jump I describe how we got to this point.

Here’s How I Shaped Waving
In session one, I offer him my finger as if asking him to step up. I click and treat when he lifts his foot onto my finger. In session two, I hold my finger higher, closer to his head, and point it down a little more so it no longer looks like I’m asking for a step up. He uses his beak to hold onto my finger while he lifts his foot high enough to grab it. I c/t all foot lifts, even if they don’t reach my finger.

In the third session I start moving my finger away when he reaches for it with his beak . This was probably the most difficult session since he really wanted to hold onto my finger with both his beak and his foot. I was surprised how determined he was to grab hold of it, even though I was rewarding him just for foot lifts.

About half the reps during the first half of the third training session had me trying to pull me finger out of his reach. During the second half I hold my finger further away and wave it at him while giving the verbal cue. This resulted in him offering several behaviors including the desired foot lift, but also “wings up” and “turn around.”

This video is of session four. I was surprised that he only did foot lifts during this session, completely forgoing attempts to grab my finger.

The first two sessions were probably 3-4 minutes each. The third session took maybe closer to 5 minutes. This particular clip, as you can see, lasts about one minute. The original recording was 3 minutes long, but he spends the last 2 minutes just screaming and being distracted so I cut it.

Video of Sun Conure and His Ball Trick

Another attempt to capture Stewie on video. Better than our previous video clip, I think.

The “put the ball in the cup trick” was the first big “stupid parlor trick” this little sun conure learned, but when we started training he was still pretty bitey; in fact, he’d reach around training props just to bite me, so I needed to be careful not to leave my fingers exposed when I gave him the wiffle ball. As you can see in this video (below), it’s a non-issue now, because he’s stopped seeking out biting opportunities. (Personally, “not biting” is my favorite trick , but that doesn’t make for very exciting YouTube clips.)

To learn how Stewie learned how to do this particular prop trick, read the previous post about my attempts to teach retrieve.

Stewie Demonstrates Targeting

I’m still a terrible cinematographer, but I figured I’d go ahead and post this anyway. I wheeled Stewie’s playstand in front of the computer (with a built-in camera) and did a couple reps of targeting. Because the target stick is a black chopstick and the background is basically black, you often can’t see it in this video — but he does beak the end of it to earn a “good boy” and a safflower seed each time he does it.

Even if you can’t see the chopstick well in this video, you can definitely see how Stewie will climb all over to touch it. That’s a solidly reinforced behavior.

If you’re interested in learning how to clicker train your bird, check out Melinda Johnson’s book Clicker Training for Birds, on clickertraining.com:

I’ll post some better YouTube videos of other people training their birds to target in a bit.

Teaching My Parrot to Fetch: Step 1

I pulled this old draft out of my archives. It’s from late last year, but I thought I’d go ahead and publish it now, even though he already knows how to retrieve and put the ball in his cup.

After very fast progress with targeting, we hit a bit of a bump moving on to the next trick.

It’s not that my bird isn’t smart, but rather the problem was that I wasn’t communicating what I wanted clearly. So we ended up having to take a few steps back and simplifying the task dramatically.

He was doing fine touching the wiffle ball I was using for a prop, and sometimes he’d even grab it — but he always dropped it very quickly. I got stuck at getting him to hold on to it.

This is how I got Stewie to actually grab the toy, not just beak it:

I put it in the way of his treat dish. He grabbed the toy to move it out of the way, but before he could drop it, I c/t for grabbing it and catch the toy before he dropped it. Okay, I admit, it was cheating a little and it’s better to have your bird learn by really experimenting with new behaviors himself, but we weren’t making progress and he was frustrated.

So we did a lot of reps of him grabbing the ball and lifting it a bit. I started delaying the click to make him lift it higher, so he’d grab it lift it all the way out of the cup and move it around as if to say “Hellllo! See me lifting it? What are you blind? Where’s my treat?!”

After that I wanted to teach him to put it in my hand. I held my hand out to force contact with the ball and c/t’d. Didn’t seem to work. Then I tried taking the ball, but that resulted in him biting me — he was still afraid of or mad at hands at that point — which was a major setback. Clicking and biting shouldn’t go together!

So I stopped trying to take the ball and kept trying to shape bigger and bigger lifts out of the cup, but didn’t know how to proceed from there.

Then one day, when his wiffle ball was sitting at the bottom of his playstand, he climbed down, grabbed it, climbed all the way back up his stand and put the wiffle ball in his cup!

Ah ha! I was trying to teach him to lift the ball out of his cup, but what he had LEARNED instead was that he got a treat for putting the ball BACK in his cup. Smart birdy!

So I changed course and followed his lead. Rather than getting him to take the ball out of the cup and give it to me, I simply started handing him the ball to place inside the cup. After several sessions he’d even walk a few steps to take the ball and a few steps back to deposit it. This method also gave me more control over how close my fingers got to him since I wanted to avoid getting nipped at.

That’s how Stewie learned his first “real” trick — how to put a ball in a cup — even though I was actually trying to teach him retrieve. The student teaches the master

Watch the video of Stewie doing his “basketball” trick here.

Stay tuned for Part II of this post where I explain how we went on to learn actually to retrieve.

Stewie’s Video on YouTube

My video of Stewie on YouTube is almost at 1,000 views. Go help me over the hump

This was taken back in November, when he hadn’t learned much beyond targeting, retrieve and “put the ball in the cup”. Retrieve is the only thing he did correctly, and he gave it to the wrong person most of the time. (It wasn’t fair, since we confused him with the cues and there were so many distractions.)

Stewie now targets like a pro, puts a ball in a cup, brings me things, puts rings on a peg, flies to me on command (sort of, sometimes) , can put coins in a piggy bank, and a few things I’m forgetting.

Hard to believe this is the same misanthropic biter that first came to me from the shelter.

I’m starting to think seriously about getting another bird – something similar in size to Stewie, but preferably not as loud. LOL. I think a green cheek would be perfect, but because I also feel strongly about getting another rescue bird, my choices will be limited by what’s out there.

Anyone have suggestions on what other types of birds I should be looking for? Maybe a Quaker?

Cockatiel with Small Ring Toss Prop

Teaching Flighted Recall: First Steps

In the last couple of weeks Stewie has had a few flight feathers grow back in. He was clipped when I got him last summer and he’s been to the vet for a follow-up trim because one was growing in really uneven.

But this time around I’ve been wrestling with the decision whether to keep him clipped or try to let him fly. So far he has two full flights on each side and that’s enough to get him pretty mobile. He’s not an expert flier, but he can fly enough to get into trouble

I started recall training with Stewie this weekend and our first session went really well.

First I asked him for regular step ups. I kept increasing the distance a fraction of an inch until he could barely reach me with his beak if he stretched as far as he could. (He had to reach real far, put his beak on me and then lunge to pull the rest of himself onto my
arm.)

When I was just out of reach I brought out the big guns: a Nutriberry – his very favorite treat in the whole world. That got his attention. Using the Nutriberry as a lure, I coaxed him to get up on my arm.

It took a little while of him running up and down his cage trying to figure out how to reach me and then after much hesitation, he hopped over. That got him lots of praise and a whole Nutriberry! He dropped half of it, which I retrieved and used to get him to do it again.

That first 2 hops were the most difficult. After that he just got his regular safflower seeds as a reward. Going from a short hop, to a
short hop with a little wing flapping, to a flight of a couple of feet went very smoothly.

Stewie did all that in just one session. Now need to keep reinforcing it and trying lots of distances, changing the heights, etc.

He’s still not doing it all the time, and today he won’t attempt longer distances even if it’s a distance he’s comfortable flying; but if he got every single trick down cold in just one session, I’d be at my wits end trying find new ways to keep him challenged.

Flighted recall is probably one of the most important tricks to teach a parrot who can fly, so I’m going to try to be more vigilant about training and reinforcement for this one than I’ve been with some of his others.